Two Chefs, Two Cultures, One Spectacular Menu at Mezzaluna, Bangkok
November 30, 2024
The Dome at lebua recently hosted a culinary event of unprecedented ambition – a three-night showcase uniting nine Michelin stars under its iconic roof. At the heart of this gastronomic spectacle was Mezzaluna, where Chef Ryuki Kawasaki and Chef Olivier Bellin orchestrated a menu that was nothing short of a masterclass in East-meets-West cuisine.
High above the city, Mezzaluna offers a stunning view and an equally remarkable dining experience.With its “half-moon” view, the restaurant offers a unique vantage point, both literally and figuratively. Chef Ryuki Kawasaki, who has led the kitchen since 2015, embodies this vision with nearly two decades of experience across Europe, Japan, and the United States. His mastery lies in blending the precision of Japanese ingredients with the indulgence of French culinary techniques, a fusion that has earned and sustained two Michelin stars as a testament to his craft.
Joining him was Chef Olivier Bellin of L’Auberge des Glazicks in Brittany, France. A celebrated figure in modern French gastronomy, Chef Bellin has earned two Michelin stars for his inventive approach to French coastal cuisine. Rooted in the flavours of his native Brittany, Bellin’s dishes celebrate the richness of the region’s land and sea, blending tradition with bold creativity.
A Menu That Transcended BordersThe menu began with a symphony of the sea: Bafun Uni Chawanmushi from Chef Ryuki. This elegant dish balanced the buttery richness of Hokkaido’s red sea urchin with the briny freshness of Sanriku scallops, topped with a smoky kiss of ikura. It whispered of Japan’s culinary heritage, reimagined through a French lens.
Chef Bellin’s Seared Langoustine followed, showcasing a bold departure from tradition. The sweet, delicate langoustine was paired with blood sausage cream, its earthy depth juxtaposed with the sharpness of ginger and the richness of pork feet braisage (seared and braised trotters). Bellin’s Breton roots evident in every bite, with a touch of French audacity that demanded attention.
The third course was perhaps the evening’s most meditative: Chef Ryuki’s Sake-Steamed Megai Awabi. The red abalone, tender and fragrant from its sake bath, rested atop a risotto infused with shio koji, spinach, and the enticing aroma of white truffle. This was a dish that lingered – both in memory and on the palate. I have not had better abalone!
As the main course arrived, the room hummed with anticipation. Chef Bellin’s Roasted Lamb was a study in textural perfection, the tender lamb paired with a celeriac and caper tartlet, laced with a Merguez (sausage) jus that danced between smoky and piquant. Bigorneaux (sea snails) added the briny note, a subtle nod to Bellin’s coastal French heritage.
The meal concluded with Meringue Structure, a dessert as much about architecture as flavour. Created by Pastry Chef Lucas Dumarski, the dish combined citrus from Hara-san, jasmine rice, passion fruit, and an unexpected touch of wakame, all underscored by a hint of bitterness from white beer. It was a refreshing finale, simultaneously light and complex.
The Chefs Behind the Stars: Chef Ryuki Kawasaki’s culinary journey began humbly at his grandmother’s side, where he first learned the soul of traditional Japanese cooking. Over the years, his travels through the kitchens of Europe and the United States honed his ability to balance simplicity with innovation. “Japanese women have a passion for cooking,” he says, crediting his grandmother for his early inspiration. That same passion drives his work at Mezzaluna, where he has retained two Michelin stars since 2018, a feat unmatched in Thailand.
Chef Olivier Bellin, on the other hand, brings the soul of Brittany to his plates at L’Auberge des Glazicks, nestled in the French countryside. Known for his mastery of French cuisine with a modern twist, Bellin has built his reputation on celebrating the bounty of his native land with inventive techniques that respect tradition while pushing boundaries.
A New Benchmark for Culinary Excellence:The Dome at lebua’s Michelin-starred event was more than a showcase of talent; it was a celebration of what’s possible when tradition and innovation meet. For three nights, the boundaries of fine dining were redrawn, and at the centre of it all, Mezzaluna proved that the sky is not the limit – it’s just the beginning. Do yourselves a favour and keep a look out for what The Dome at lebua does next. Make treating yourself to the extraordinary a habit.