Bangkok Gets the Highest Nobu
November 14, 2024
Bangkok’s dining scene reaches new heights with the arrival of Nobu, a sprawling three-level sanctuary of Japanese-Peruvian fusion atop The Empire, featuring a restaurant, bar, a rooftop and multiple terraces (that are perfect for special events) and expansive city views. With at least 500 covers, Nobu Bangkok is an ambitious entry at a time when fine dining faces new challenges and evolving demands from an increasingly cost-conscious clientele, yet it meets the moment with style, sophistication, and a distinctive culinary experience.
From the moment you step inside, Rockwell Group’s design creates an ambience that is both grand and grounded, reflecting Thailand whilst seamlessly blending Bangkok’s urban energy with Nobu’s minimalist approach. The establishment also boasts private dining rooms – Mori, Machi, Kawa, and Sancho – for exclusive gatherings. At the helm of this Nobu experience are Executive Chef Andrew Bozoki and Sushi Chef Masami Ouchi.
On the plate, the food is a lesson in Japanese precision and Peruvian flair. The Nobu Tacos embody Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s fusion philosophy. Here, the Tuna Dry Miso Taco pairs diced tuna with dry miso, for an umami counterpoint to the fish’s delicacy. The Beef Spicy Ponzu Taco, on the other hand, is bold and deeply savoury, its richness balanced by the citrusy zing of ponzu. Encased in crispy shells and garnished with chives, each bite is a reminder of Nobu’s capacity for reinvention. The Yellowtail Jalapeño, a staple for Nobu loyalists, offers thin slices of fresh yellowtail in a shallow pool of ponzu, their buttery texture offset by a gentle kick from sliced jalapeños. It’s a study in balance, where simplicity allows the quality of the ingredients to take centre stage. The Crispy Rice with Spicy Tuna also makes an appearance – rice squares fried to a perfect crunch and skewered beside a creamy, subtly spiced tuna topping: a delightful, textural experience enhanced by a ponzu dipping sauce. The salad, Baby Spinach Salad with Dry Miso, Shrimp, Parmesan, and Truffle Oil, is simple and uncomplicated, as if merely marking time.
Nobu’s hot dishes though pump it up, doing a balancing act between decadence and restraint. The Black Cod Butter Lettuce, a mainstay of the Nobu repertoire, is served here with a miso ponzu sauce that plays on the black cod’s delicate sweetness, inviting diners to use their hands to dip this lettuce taco into layers of umami for each bite. Meanwhile, the Soft-Shell Crab Tempura with Amazu Ponzu is a study in contrasting textures and temperatures, with juicy watermelon cubes complementing the crispy crab and tangy amazu (sweet vinegar) ponzu sauce. That watermelon deserves its own line in the menu.
Indulgence is delivered with Scallop and Foie Gras with Vanilla Den Miso in spades. The rich, buttery foie gras and sweet scallop are glazed with a hint of vanilla-infused miso – epitomising the luxurious end of Nobu’s fusion spectrum. Rounding out the selection, the Beef Anticucho, served on a fragrant hoba leaf, brings a bold, smoky punch with its tender, grilled beef infused with spicy, tangy anticucho sauce. The Chef’s Sushi Selection showcases the freshest cuts of fish, from delicately garnished tuna to luscious salmon topped with a hint of caviar. Each piece feels like an ode to both tradition and innovation.
For dessert, Nobu Bangkok’s gluten-free dessert trio is a thoughtfully curated finale (make sure to warn the kitchen in advance as I did). A molten chocolate lava cake reveals its gooey centre beneath a Nobu-branded chocolate disc, while a delicate mochi offers a satisfyingly chewy counterpoint. The other star is the yuzu sorbet on meringue, with the bright citrus flavour of yuzu refreshing the palate and leaving you with a sweet, airy finish. Nobu Bangkok’s cocktail and sake selection is no less impressive, with the rooftop bar offering panoramic views of the city’s skyline – a breathtaking backdrop for sunset sips. In a city flexing its muscle as a global foodie city, Nobu Bangkok feels right at home.
Directly accessible via Chong Nonsi BTS skytrain station, Nobu Bangkok is open for dinner (17.30 – 01.00 hrs.). The rooftop bar is open from sunset until the early hours.
For reservations, call +66 (0) 2 407 1654 or email ea-reservations@marriotthotels.com