From London to Bangkok: Alex Dilling’s Guest Residency at Le Normandie, Bangkok

October 04, 2024

Dilling’s menu at Le Normandie marries classical French techniques with surprising notes of innovation

When Alex Dilling, the celebrated British chef, stages a guest residency at Le Normandie at Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, he is poised to deliver more than a perfectly crafted menu bristling with signature dishes – it’s an experience that lingers on the palate and memory.

True to his style, Dilling’s menu at Le Normandie marries classical French techniques with surprising notes of innovation, offering dishes that are both daring and delicately balanced, modern yet classically French. From London to New York and back again, Alex Dilling’s culinary narrative is one of talent, travel, and tenacity. Starting out under the tutelage of Didier Elena and Tony Esnault at Adour in New York, he helped the restaurant secure two Michelin stars by 2012. His time at Caviar Russe helped shape his refined approach to ingredients, with caviar becoming a hallmark of his style. Upon returning to the UK, Dilling served as Executive Corporate Chef for Hélène Darroze, overseeing Michelin-starred kitchens in London and Paris. His next chapter took him to The Greenhouse in London, where he continued to hone his skills. In 2022, Dilling made his mark with his eponymously named solo venture at Hotel Café Royal in London. Here Dilling made the impossible, possible:earning two Michelin stars in just six months.

A Le Normandie, Dilling presents a 3-course and 4-course set lunch, as well as a 5-course and 7-course set dinner, along with an à la carte menu featuring 12 dishes arranged into four sections: starters, middle courses, mains and desserts. Says the chef, “It’s an absolute honour for me to be in this hotel with its amazing history and to cook in this dining room with its huge history. This is my second time here and I am looking forward to it.”

The lunch begins with the luxurious nuttiness of Krystal Caviar paired with ginger-marinated Japanese sweet shrimp (amebi) with ginger jelly on top. It is then elevated with a tangy unpasteurised Crême Crue whipped like abavarois and infused with smoked eel, and served in a caviar tin emblazoned with Dilling’s initials. For texture there’s a tapioca chip on the side. Instagram perfect, the dish reveals the chef’s meticulous attention to detail and deep understanding of how the finest elements, when harmoniously balanced, can transform a dish into a masterpiece. As an introduction, it is flawless.

Next is the Japanese Seabream tartare served on top of Provençal tomato consommé jelly. With a light herbaceous note from shiso, it is all tied together by a creamy buffalo milk sauce. Dilling’s rendition ofFoie Gras Torchonis both familiar and surprising. The creamy, rich poached foie gras is paired with the acidic-sweetness of conference pear and the heat of long pepper, all anchored by a light, buttery brioche (I opted for a gluten-free cracker). It looks like a dessert – and is a study in contrasts that surprisingly doesn’t feel never overwrought.

Limousin Veal Sweetbread, Duck from Maison Burgaud, Krystal Caviar, Coconut Vacherin


The Limousin Veal Sweetbread – arguably one of the standout courses – pairs the delicate offal from Limousin region of France cooked in boullion and then pan roasted. It is served with marinated sardines, citrus, and Lilliput capers, melding earth and sea in a graceful surf ’n’ turf. Dilling coaxes surprising layers of flavour from each ingredient, making this course as comforting as it is unexpected. A playful homage to the South of France, the dish dubbed Bouillabaisse reimagines the classic with olive oil-poached Brittany salt cod and diced prawns (the Fregola Sarda, pearl like pasta, is missing from my dish to keep it gluten-free). The powerful fish stew is reimagined as espuma bridging tradition with Dilling’s modern French presentation. The aroma of the bouillabaisse foam is your first taste that continues to linger on the palate. The classic Sardinian pasta adds a delightful chewy texture to any dish, but my gluten-free version seemed complete on its one.

The meal crescendos with a Duck from Maison Burgaud. Challans duck is served with “chou farci,” smoked potato, and a complex jus gastrique ­– a dish that is an ode to French refinement and craftsmanship. The tiny chou farci,or “stuffed cabbage” is filled with ground duck and mashed potatoes. A bowl of mashed potatoes accompanies the duck – so delicious that you are tempted to ask for more.

Desserts are where the artistry takes a surreal turn. The delicate Galangal Oolong Sabayon balances the warmth of galangal and the earthy tones of Oolong, cleansing the palate for the finale: Coconut Vacherin. Expecting layers of meringue, cream, and fruit – I get a white chocolate coconut shell filled with lemongrass sorbet, coconut panna cotta, diced coconut flesh and lemony cream — a refreshing and refined interpretation.

Yet, if there’s one dish that truly encapsulates Dilling’s mastery, it is the Hunter’s Chicken, or Poulet Chasseur, as the French would call it. It’s the dish I will return for. Dilling presents it as a ‘near-Wellington,’ encased in crispy chicken skin with mushroom duxelles and chicken mousse, keeping the breast perfectly moist.

Overall, Dilling’s residency is a tribute to Le Normandie’s heritage, demonstrating that innovation doesn’t need to shout to make an impact — it’s expressed through the quiet confidence of each plate, the deliberate balance of flavours, and the subtle elegance of culinary artistry. The magic also lies in the quiet luxury that defines Le Normandie.

Alex Dilling will be at Le Normandie until 31 January 2025.Make your reservations HERE.

For more information, contact Le Normandie Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok at +66 (0) 2659 9000 or email mobkk-normandie@mohg.com


Neetinder Dhillon
With over two and half decades in the media, The Front Row founder Neetinder Dhillon has plenty of stories to tell. As the former editor of several lifestyle, travel, inflight and B2B magazines, she has been in the front row keeping a close eye on news, trends and all things luxe. She subscribes to Pico Iyer’s concept of luxury: In an age of distraction, nothing can feel more luxurious than paying attention.

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